"Gas range won't light" is a single symptom with three to five possible root causes, depending on the architecture of your range. The diagnostic logic differs significantly between standing-pilot ranges (older), electronic ignition (most modern mass-market), and premium ignition systems (Wolf, Viking, La Cornue). This guide is the actual decision tree our techs run on this call.

Quick safety note up front: if you smell gas at any point during your self-diagnostic, stop, ventilate the kitchen, and call your gas utility. Don't troubleshoot a gas-smell scenario yourself. That's not a "won't light" situation; that's a leak.

BHGS #A49573, EPA 608 Universal certified #1346255700410. We service gas ranges across LA, OC, Ventura, San Bernardino, Riverside. $89 residential diagnostic.

Step 1: Identify your ignition architecture

Three common architectures in LA homes:

  • Standing pilot (older homes, pre-1990 rebuilds). A small flame burns continuously inside the burner system; turning the knob releases gas which is ignited by the standing pilot. Visible by a faint blue flame visible inside the cooktop area when the range is "off."
  • Electronic spark ignition (most 1990-present mass-market). No standing pilot. When you turn the knob, an electronic spark module clicks rapidly to ignite the gas. The clicking is audible.
  • Hot-surface ignition (some premium tier). Glowing igniter element heats up to ignite gas. Visible orange glow when knob is turned.

Look or listen first; the diagnostic path branches from here.

For standing-pilot ranges

Standing pilot architecture has three failure modes when burners won't light:

  1. Pilot is out. Visible inspection — no faint flame? Relight per manufacturer instructions (usually a small button on the burner manifold, hold for 30 seconds while applying flame to the pilot tube). If it lights and stays lit, you're done.
  2. Pilot lights but doesn't stay lit. Thermocouple failure. The thermocouple senses pilot heat and signals the gas valve to stay open; if the thermocouple is bad, the valve closes after you release the manual button. $260-$440 thermocouple replacement.
  3. Pilot stays lit but burners don't ignite. Either the burner orifice or pilot tube is blocked (carbon buildup, $120-$200 cleaning service), or the burner-side gas valve is failing ($340-$540).

For electronic spark ignition

Most common architecture in LA. When you turn a burner knob, you should hear rapid clicking from the spark module, and the burner should light within 1-3 seconds. If not, three failure modes:

  1. Click but no flame. Spark module is firing, but no gas reaching the burner. Check that the gas shut-off valve is open (sometimes accidentally closed during cabinet work). If shut-off is open, the burner-side gas valve has failed: $340-$540.
  2. No click. Spark module failure. Year 5-8 typical wear. $220-$380 replacement.
  3. Click but burner won't light, smell of gas. Worn spark electrode (the metal post that creates the actual spark). The electrode tip wears, can't bridge to the burner cap. $140-$220 electrode replacement.

Brand-specific patterns

Wolf Range, La Cornue, Bertazzoni, Viking (premium)

Premium ranges typically use heavier-duty spark modules and thermocouples that last year 8-12 vs year 5-8 on mass-market. When they fail, the parts are more expensive ($380-$580 for a Wolf VRM-series spark module vs $220-$380 for a Whirlpool equivalent). Service tier shifts to "premium" because the parts logistics and tech depth differ; we carry common Wolf and Viking parts on the truck for the LA route.

Wolf and Viking commonly use sealed burners with separate ignition assemblies — replacing the ignition assembly is a more involved job than swapping a single Whirlpool spark module.

Samsung, LG, Whirlpool, GE (mass-market)

Year 5-8 typical spark module wear. Standardized parts, same-day service almost always. Diagnostic is fastest on mass-market because the architecture is consistent across brands.

Bosch (premium European)

Bosch ranges use precise spark modules with longer service life (year 7-10). When they fail, replacement is $280-$440 — slightly above mass-market, well below premium American luxury.

What you can fix yourself before calling

  1. Verify gas supply. Is the gas shut-off valve behind the range fully open? Have you had recent cabinet work that might have closed it accidentally?
  2. Visual burner cap inspection. Pull the burner cap; is it properly seated? A misaligned cap blocks the spark from reaching the gas.
  3. Burner port cleaning. If you cook a lot and haven't cleaned in a while, clogs are common. Soak burner caps in vinegar and water, brush ports clean, dry thoroughly. $120-$200 if we do it; free if you do.
  4. Standing pilot relight (if applicable). Per manufacturer instructions on a label inside the cooktop or behind the bottom drawer.

When to call us

Anything that involves gas valve replacement, spark module replacement, or thermocouple replacement is tech-level work — gas-line touching requires BHGS license. The diagnostic identifies specifically which component, and the $89 fee is applied toward the repair when you approve the work.

If you smell gas at any point — stop, ventilate, call gas utility. We coordinate with utility work when needed.

For service: range repair, oven repair. Wolf-specific: Wolf range failures. By city: Los Angeles, Beverly Hills.