Failure mode · Igniter · Bake Element · Temperature Sensor · Control Board
Residential gas, electric, and dual-fuel ovens across LA, OC, Ventura, Riverside. About 50% of gas not-heating calls are a weak igniter, $200 to $340. We test before we replace. $89 diagnostic, waived with repair. (424) 325-0520
8 service territories across Southern California
Oven Not Heating Repair
Southern California
01 · The diagnostic split
The diagnostic logic forks at gas-vs-electric. Same symptom (oven won't reach temp, won't get warm at all, or heats then quits), three or four very different root causes per fuel type. Most expensive mistake: replacing the gas valve when the actual problem is a weak igniter that costs a third as much.
Our techs run the same test sequence on every not-heating call: igniter current measurement on gas units, element resistance test on electric units, RTD sensor resistance check, control-board diagnostic-mode entry. The order matters, and skipping steps leads to swap-and-pray repairs that cost more in the long run.
$89 residential diagnostic, waived with repair. BHGS #A49573, EPA 608 Universal certified (#1346255700410), BBB A+. Phones answered 24/7.
02 · Gas oven not heating
Most common gas oven failure. The glow-bar igniter must hit roughly 3.5A current draw to trigger the gas valve safety to open. Below that threshold, the igniter glows visibly but the gas valve never opens, no flame, no heat. Visible glow is misleading: customers see the orange glow and assume the igniter is fine, while the current has actually dropped below threshold from age. Replacement $200 to $340.
Even with a strong igniter, the gas valve safety can seize closed mechanically. Diagnostic: confirm igniter current is at or above spec, then test gas valve operation directly. If the igniter is good and gas isn't flowing, the valve is the culprit. $440 to $680.
Less common but happens. Gas line pressure dropped (regulator issue, supply problem) below burner spec. Burner won't sustain a flame even when ignited. We test pressure at the manifold during a live call. Resolution often requires gas-supply contractor coordination, we identify and refer.
03 · Electric oven not heating
Visible burn-through on the lower coil, usually at one end where the element flexes most under thermal cycling. Resistance test confirms: healthy bake element reads 19 to 30 ohms; broken element reads infinite resistance (open circuit). Replacement $200 to $360 with labor.
Same failure mode as bake element. Broil sees less use so it lasts longer, year 10 to 14 typical. Same resistance test, same replacement cost band.
Convection ovens have a third heating element behind the rear wall, paired with a fan. Bake and broil might work fine while convection is dead. Diagnostic isolates the failed element. Convection element $260 to $440.
Sometimes the element is fine but the relay on the control board that switches it on has failed. We diagnose the relay before condemning the element. Control board replacement $440 to $720 mid-market, $680 to $1,100 pro-style (Wolf, Viking, Thermador).
04 · Both gas and electric, common failures
05 · Recent jobs
Composite examples; model numbers, ages, and prices are accurate to typical scope.
Owner reported oven "trying to heat", pulled in two parts on Amazon (gas valve and igniter) before calling us. We tested the igniter first: current measured 2.8A versus 3.5A spec. Replaced igniter, gas valve was unnecessary (we returned it for the customer). Total: $89 plus $230 igniter plus 45 minutes = $290. Customer kept the unneeded gas valve as a spare, no upsell.
Bake element visible burn-through near right end. Replaced bake element, ran 350°F preheat test, verified setpoint reach in 12 minutes. Total: $89 plus $310 element plus 30 minutes = $440.
Igniter tested fine at 3.6A, gas valve operating, sensor resistance in spec. Control board not enabling heat command. Replaced control board, recalibrated oven temp, verified bake and broil function. Total: $89 plus $580 board plus 1.5 hours = $720.
Cooktop working, oven not heating. RTD sensor resistance reading 1,250 ohms (should be ~1,080). Replaced sensor, confirmed temp recovery to setpoint. Total: $89 plus $235 sensor plus 45 minutes = $310.
Customer assumed the induction generator board failed and was killing the whole unit. Diagnostic told a different story: induction generator board (which drives the cooktop coils) was fine, all four cooktop zones induction-tested with magnetic test cookware. The oven side, on a separate resistive bake element, had its own independent failure: bake element open-circuit. Replaced bake element only. Generator board untouched, $890 part the customer assumed was needed. The induction generator board drives the cooktop, not the oven. On induction ranges, oven not heating is the resistive bake element, not the generator board. Total: $89 plus $260 element plus 1 hour = $360. Saved customer $890 by testing both sides separately.
06 · Honest opinion
The most expensive avoidable mistake on gas oven not-heating calls is replacing the gas valve when the actual problem is a weak igniter. Igniter $200 to $340, valve $440 to $680. Online forums full of customers who were sold a valve replacement when an igniter would have fixed it. Test the igniter current first. Always.
On electric ovens: visual inspection of the bake element catches obvious breaks, misses partial failures. Resistance test takes two minutes and confirms the diagnosis. Don't replace based on appearance alone.
On induction ranges: the generator board is for the cooktop only. When the oven won't heat on a Bosch HEI, Samsung NZ slide-in induction, or GE Profile induction, the bake element is the suspect, not the generator board. We see customers assume the generator failure killed everything, when actually two independent components failed (or only the resistive oven side did).
07 · Pricing
| Service | Cost |
|---|---|
| Diagnostic visit | $89, waived with repair |
| Gas igniter replacement (glow-bar) | $200 to $340 |
| Gas valve safety replacement | $440 to $680 |
| Bake element (electric) | $200 to $360 |
| Broil element (electric) | $200 to $360 |
| Convection element (electric) | $260 to $440 |
| Temperature sensor (RTD) | $200 to $340 |
| Door switch | $200 to $340 |
| Control board (mid-market) | $440 to $720 |
| Control board (pro-style Wolf/Viking/Thermador) | $680 to $1,100 |
| Multi-component repair | $700 to $1,200 |
| Warranty | 90 days parts and labor |
Residential $89 diagnostic, applied toward repair. No emergency surcharge.
08 · Why us
Sister sub-services: temperature off, door issues, self-clean problems. Parent: oven repair. Related: range repair, wall oven repair. Credentials: BHGS license, EPA 608.
09 · FAQ
Click means the spark electrode is firing, but the burner isn't igniting. On gas ovens with a glow-bar igniter (most common), 'click' is the wrong symptom. Glow-bar ovens don't click, they glow visibly. If yours clicks instead, you may have a hot-surface ignition pilot system that's lost gas pressure, or the gas valve safety isn't opening. We diagnose with a gas pressure gauge first.
Yes. Visual inspection catches obvious breaks but misses partial-failure cases where the element heats unevenly across its length. We test resistance with a multimeter. A healthy bake element reads 19 to 30 ohms. Open circuit means break (visible or invisible). Off-spec resistance means partial failure. Replacement either way, the test confirms which side of the line you're on.
Two common causes. (1) Temperature sensor (RTD probe) drifted, sensor reports oven already at setpoint when it isn't, control board cycles heat off. We test sensor resistance at room temp (should read about 1,080 ohms). (2) Cooling fan failure on convection ovens, control board protective shutoff when ambient cabinet temp rises too high. Both are diagnosable in one visit.
Same diagnostic logic, different parts cost. A Wolf DF range oven that won't heat goes through the same igniter-current and sensor-resistance tests we'd run on a GE Profile. Difference: the Wolf igniter or sensor part costs more (premium OEM, sometimes 2 to 3x). But the test sequence prevents wasted parts, on either tier.
Not safely without an inline clamp meter on the live circuit. Igniter glow color is a partial visual proxy: bright orange means strong current, dim red or yellow-orange means weak. If your glow looks dim, that's a strong indicator. Confirm with us, $89 diagnostic includes the current measurement.
90 days parts and labor on every repair. If the same component fails inside 90 days we replace it free. BHGS #A49573, EPA 608 Universal certified (#1346255700410), BBB A+ accredited.
$89 residential diagnostic, waived with repair. Same-day across LA, OC, Ventura. 24/7 phones, no emergency surcharge. BHGS #A49573, EPA 608 Universal certified (#1346255700410).