Dryer Error Codes · Brand Reference Guide · Same Day Southern California
Dryer Error Codes, Explained by Brand
LG, Samsung, Whirlpool, and GE — what the codes mean, which point to a clogged vent, which you can clear yourself, and when it's a tech job.
Our Branches
8 service territories across Southern California
01 · Start here
Most dryer codes mean one thing: restricted airflow.
Across every brand, the most common dryer error code points to restricted airflow — a clogged lint filter or a blocked exhaust vent. LG calls it the Flow Sense d80/d90/d95 set, Whirlpool and Maytag show AF, and Samsung's heating codes (HC/hE) usually trace back to the same cause. The fix is almost always cleaning the filter and the vent, not replacing a part. Two things to know up front: LG's CL is not an error (it's the child lock — hold the button to clear it), and a power-interruption code (PF) clears with a simple unplug-and-restart. Sensor, heater, and control codes that survive a full vent cleaning are the ones that need a tech. $89 residential diagnostic, waived with repair.
Why airflow codes matter: a restricted dryer vent isn't just why your clothes take three cycles — trapped lint and heat are a leading cause of household dryer fires. That's why an airflow code is worth clearing the same day, not next month.
02 · LG dryers
LG codes — mostly airflow, sensor, and door.
d80 / d90 / d95 — Flow Sense airflow restriction
LG's airflow warnings at rising severity (roughly 80/90/95% blockage). Clean the filter and vent and they clear themselves. Full walkthrough on our LG d80/d90/d95 guide.
tE1 / tE2 — thermistor (temp sensor)
The temperature sensor is reading out of range. Rule out a clogged vent first (it fakes a high reading); if the vent is clear and it returns, the thermistor needs a tech.
dE — door · FO — filter out · PF — power failure
dE means the door isn't fully closed (reseat the filter, clear the door). FO means the lint filter isn't seated. PF means the cycle was interrupted by a power blip — hold Start to resume.
PS — power/wiring · CL — child lock (not an error)
PS points to a 240V power-cord or terminal-block wiring problem (a tech/electrician job). CL is simply the child lock — hold the Child Lock button ~3 seconds to clear it.
03 · Samsung dryers
Samsung groups codes by family.
Heating family — HC / hE
The dryer detected an overheat. The most common cause is a clogged vent, so clean the exhaust first. If it persists on a clear vent, the heater or a thermostat needs a tech.
Temperature family — tS / tO / tE
A thermistor reading out of range. Same order: clean the lint screen and vent, then if it returns it's a sensor replacement.
Door family — dC / dE / dF
The door is open or not latching. Check for an obstruction and that the door clicks shut; a persistent code means the door switch or latch.
Power family — 9E1 / 9C1 / FC
These flag an abnormal voltage supply or power frequency. Confirm the dryer is on a proper dedicated circuit and the cord is installed correctly; if it is, it's an electrician or tech call.
04 · Whirlpool & Maytag dryers
Whirlpool and Maytag share a short, blunt code set.
AF — restricted airflow
Whirlpool's airflow code: clogged lint screen, blocked vent, or kinked duct. Clean the path end to end and touch any key to dismiss it.
PF — power failure · L2 — low/no voltage
PF means the cycle was interrupted by an outage — hold Start to resume. L2 means the heater isn't getting proper line voltage; check the breaker and fuses (a 240V dryer trips one leg and still tumbles without heat), and if those are fine it's an electrician/tech call.
F# E# — service fault · E1 / E2 (model-specific)
A generic F-then-E code means the control found a fault that needs service. On some models an E1 or E2 points to an exhaust thermistor reading out of range — that's an ohm-test-and-replace tech job. Note: "Sensing" and "Wet" on the display are normal cycle-status messages, not error codes.
05 · GE dryers
GE dryers usually don't show a code at all.
This is the honest answer, and it saves you chasing a chart that doesn't apply: most GE dryers are diagnosed by symptom, not by a digital error code — they simply don't display one. Some newer GE front-load (GFD-series) models can show a fault code, but GE's code formats vary by model and generation and there's no single consistent published list, so a generic "GE dryer code chart" online will often be wrong for your exact machine. The reliable move on a GE is to check your model's own manual for what it displays.
The good news is the diagnostic logic doesn't change with the badge. Whatever a dryer shows (or doesn't), the order is the same: airflow and power first, then the sensor, heater, and control. Our techs diagnose GE dryers by behavior — how it heats, tumbles, and cycles — which is exactly how GE intends them to be serviced.
06 · What you can safely do
Clear the common codes yourself.
- Clean the lint filter and the vent, end to end. This clears the airflow codes on every brand — LG d80/d90/d95, Whirlpool/Maytag AF, and most Samsung heating codes. Pull and wash the filter, clear the flexible duct behind the dryer, and check the exterior vent flap opens freely.
- Power-cycle the dryer. Unplug it for a minute and restart. This clears PF power-interruption codes and transient glitches.
- Release the child lock (LG CL). Hold the Child Lock button ~3 seconds.
- Check the door. For door codes, confirm nothing blocks the door and it clicks fully shut.
- Note if the code returns. Cleared and gone = airflow or a glitch. Comes back on a clean vent = a failed part.
Where to stop: filter and vent cleaning, power cycling, and the child lock are safe homeowner work and fix the large majority of dryer codes. Do not open the dryer cabinet to test the thermistor, heating element, or control board, and never run a gas dryer with the gas line disturbed. A code that survives a full vent cleaning is the handoff point.
07 · When it's a tech job
A code that outlasts a clean vent means a failed part.
When the vent is verified clear and a thermistor, heating, door-switch, or power/wiring code keeps returning, the part has to be tested and replaced. Our techs carry the common LG, Samsung, and Whirlpool thermistors, thermostats, and door switches, so most dryer-code calls are a one-visit fix. We verify the vent ourselves first — there's no point replacing a sensor that was reading a real blockage.
More help: the full dryer repair hub, the LG d80/d90/d95 guide, and if your dryer runs but clothes stay wet, dryer not heating. A chronically restricted vent is worth a dedicated dryer vent cleaning. Brand coverage: LG, Samsung, Whirlpool, and GE dryer repair. Same-day across Los Angeles, Beverly Hills, and Pasadena in most cases. $89 residential diagnostic, waived with repair. Book online or call (424) 325-0520.
08 · FAQ
Dryer error codes: common questions.
What is the most common cause of a dryer error code?
Restricted airflow, by a wide margin. Most brands have a dedicated code for it — LG uses the Flow Sense d80/d90/d95 set, Whirlpool and Maytag show AF, and Samsung's heating codes (HC/hE) usually trace back to the same thing. A clogged lint filter or a blocked exhaust vent chokes the air the dryer needs, so it either overheats and shuts down or takes three cycles to dry. It's also a genuine fire hazard, which is why these codes are worth acting on the same day. The fix is almost always cleaning the filter and vent, not replacing a part.
What does CL mean on an LG dryer?
On its own, CL is not an error — it's the Child Lock indicator. The control panel is locked so the buttons don't respond, usually switched on by accident. Hold the Child Lock button for about 3 seconds to turn it off. It's the single most common 'code' LG dryer owners worry about, and it isn't a fault at all.
Can I clear a dryer error code myself?
Often, yes — start with the safe basics. Clean the lint filter and the exhaust vent end to end (this clears the airflow codes: LG d80/d90/d95, Whirlpool AF, and most Samsung heating codes). Power-cycle the dryer by unplugging it for a minute (this clears power-interruption codes like Whirlpool and LG's PF). Release the child lock if you see CL. What you should not do is open the dryer cabinet to test the thermistor or heating element, or disturb a gas line — those are tech jobs. If a code returns after a full vent cleaning and a power cycle, the fault is inside the machine.
My dryer shows a thermistor code (LG tE1, Samsung tS, Whirlpool E1). What now?
A thermistor code means the temperature sensor is reading out of range. First rule out the simple cause: a clogged vent makes the sensor read a false high temperature, so clean the filter and exhaust and run it again. If the vent is genuinely clear and the code returns, the thermistor itself (or its wiring) has failed and needs testing against spec and replacing. That's a tech job — the sensor lives inside the cabinet. Our techs carry the common LG, Samsung, and Whirlpool thermistors, so it's usually a one-visit fix.
Do GE dryers have error codes?
Mostly not. Traditional GE dryers are diagnosed by symptom, not by a digital code — they simply don't display one. Some newer GE front-load (GFD-series) models can show a fault code, but GE's code formats vary by model and generation, and there's no single consistent published list, so the reliable move on a GE is to check the model-specific manual rather than trust a generic code chart. Whatever the display shows, the diagnostic logic is the same: airflow and power problems first, then sensor, heater, or control. Our techs diagnose GE dryers by behavior, which is how GE intends them to be serviced.
Dryer code back after cleaning the vent? Call today.
$89 diagnostic waived with repair. Same-day across LA, OC, Ventura. Phones answered 24/7.